Seals and dolphins

Today we left the Big Sand behind, but not before some pictures of the film set equipment. Is was not for Outlander, but a Mazda car. 

Mazda promotion

After that we got on the road towards Ullapool, hoping to be able to book a whale watching trip from there.

The road alternated along the coast and inland. Views varied so much, one moment we were looking at the sea, one minute later it felt like we were somewere in the stone age. 

Driving through these rough lands I remembered a story a Scotsman once told me about the beginning of Scotland; It was at the seventh day, when God just finished creating the world. His hands all dirty from making land, rocks and mountains. He sat down overlooking his creation. Then he shook the dirt and rocks off his tired hands, and where these rocks and dirt fell down is what we now call Scotland. Driving through the mountains today, passing the An Teallach, the Shurr Mor and Beinn Dearg it was very easy to believe that what this man told me is true.

In Drumchork we stopped to visit the Loch Ewe distillery, said to be the smallest distillery of Scotland. It took some searching before we found it, just to find out that it was closed.

Loch Ewe distillery

At the end of the A832, just before turning up the road towards Ullapool, we stopped over to do a little hike. Or more a strolll, to the Falls of Meassach. It was a nice, but well prepared walk.

View from the suspension bridge

Natural wooden bench. All in one piece

In Ullapool we first went to the tourist information to find out if we could do a whale watching trip from here. It was posible, but the chance of seeing whales is not too big. But right after that they told us that this week they spotted about 40 dolphins one day and some orca’s the other say. Very uncommon, but so is the weather so who knows we’re lucky.

Tanguy immediately called the company and they have a place for us tomorrow. So we decided to stay at the local campsite. But first we did some shopping at Tesco, the first proper supermarket since a couple of days. We bought a lamb leg for the bbq and then went to the campsite. We found a nice spot at the end off the campsite along the pebble beach. When we were having a gin tonic some seals came by, and shortly after that we think we saw dolphins, but it could also been orca’s 😂.  Either way it was great. I prepared the leg of lamb on the bbq while Tanguy was looking for more seals.

View from the camp site

Riley for sale 

Preparing the lamb

Ready for cooking

Liane looking for seals

Two seals 40m away from our camper

More seals or....?

The lamb 80min later

We started diner outside but the midges drove us into Tos very quickly. So we finished our meal inside.
While we were enjoying the lamb the sun set, time for a picture.

Sunset

We ended our meal with coffee and whisky.

Cheers!

Driving from Applecross to Gairloch’s Big Sand

Today we started with a nice breakfast at the Junction, a lunchroom in Applecross. 

Breakfast

After filling up our tummies we drove off, goal for the day was Gairloch where the whalesafaris would start. Whe took the alternative low level route to Shieldag. Not because we didn’t dare to cross the Beanach na Ba again, but because this road was going towards where we wanted to go. First stop would be Shieldag. And I know I am repeating myself, but what a stunning views and spectaculair road. Still pretty challaging as well, mostly first and secong gear work all the way.

Just before Shieldag we saw a sign of a smokery so we stopped to have a look. It was a local who did his own smoking and had a little shop in the garden. We bought some smoked cheddar and trout. 

In Shieldag we stopped to have some refreshments in a lovely little lunch room. I had a scone with cream and jam by de site, yammie. Also our neighbours from the Applecross  campsite showed up. It is funnie how you keep seeing the same people along the road. But not to suprising because there is only one road so everybody has to take it, including big trucks and coaches. We even got stuck in a small traffic jam on the single track road to Gairloch because three huge trucks needed to pass, one going our way, the other two coming from the opposite way. There is one thing you don’t want to have here and that is hurry. Our avarage speed is 35km per hour, I think.

Just before Gairloch there was this coach coming up our way, so we had to cross eachother on this narrow road, with rocks on one side and a fender and a steep slope on our side. It did fit, just. There was only a few centimeters between Tos and the coach left. Luckily the coach driver was also very patient and experienced so everything went well. Eventough I did feel like being in this tv show “ world’s most dangerous roads” for a second. So no pictures from that moment, too busy looking if everithing went well.

Trucks on single track

In Gairloch we had a huge dissapointment. Because of the lovely weather the whole UK desided to go whale watching. First free spot was saturday. We didn’t want to stay on one spot that long, so now we give it a try in Ullapool. And otherwise we just have to come back in Gairloch some other holliday.

The campsite in Gairloch wasn’t too great, so we drove a litle bit further to Big Sands. The campsite there is wonderfull. Very spacious in the dunes and along the beach. It’s a large sand beach with beautifull views. We took some wine with us to the beach and sat down to watch for dolphins. Unfortunately they all went on holliday too.

So instead we strolled along the water and walked back to Tos to enjoy the sun, drinks and food. The only downsite are the midges who trive very well on us, the loads of repellent we use don’t seem to bother them unfortunately

Reserved space

Outlander maybe?? Would be so nice to meet Jamie.




Our camp site




Cooling down




Enjoying the view and wine

Jelly fish