Driving from Applecross to Gairloch’s Big Sand

Today we started with a nice breakfast at the Junction, a lunchroom in Applecross. 

Breakfast

After filling up our tummies we drove off, goal for the day was Gairloch where the whalesafaris would start. Whe took the alternative low level route to Shieldag. Not because we didn’t dare to cross the Beanach na Ba again, but because this road was going towards where we wanted to go. First stop would be Shieldag. And I know I am repeating myself, but what a stunning views and spectaculair road. Still pretty challaging as well, mostly first and secong gear work all the way.

Just before Shieldag we saw a sign of a smokery so we stopped to have a look. It was a local who did his own smoking and had a little shop in the garden. We bought some smoked cheddar and trout. 

In Shieldag we stopped to have some refreshments in a lovely little lunch room. I had a scone with cream and jam by de site, yammie. Also our neighbours from the Applecross  campsite showed up. It is funnie how you keep seeing the same people along the road. But not to suprising because there is only one road so everybody has to take it, including big trucks and coaches. We even got stuck in a small traffic jam on the single track road to Gairloch because three huge trucks needed to pass, one going our way, the other two coming from the opposite way. There is one thing you don’t want to have here and that is hurry. Our avarage speed is 35km per hour, I think.

Just before Gairloch there was this coach coming up our way, so we had to cross eachother on this narrow road, with rocks on one side and a fender and a steep slope on our side. It did fit, just. There was only a few centimeters between Tos and the coach left. Luckily the coach driver was also very patient and experienced so everything went well. Eventough I did feel like being in this tv show “ world’s most dangerous roads” for a second. So no pictures from that moment, too busy looking if everithing went well.

Trucks on single track

In Gairloch we had a huge dissapointment. Because of the lovely weather the whole UK desided to go whale watching. First free spot was saturday. We didn’t want to stay on one spot that long, so now we give it a try in Ullapool. And otherwise we just have to come back in Gairloch some other holliday.

The campsite in Gairloch wasn’t too great, so we drove a litle bit further to Big Sands. The campsite there is wonderfull. Very spacious in the dunes and along the beach. It’s a large sand beach with beautifull views. We took some wine with us to the beach and sat down to watch for dolphins. Unfortunately they all went on holliday too.

So instead we strolled along the water and walked back to Tos to enjoy the sun, drinks and food. The only downsite are the midges who trive very well on us, the loads of repellent we use don’t seem to bother them unfortunately

Reserved space

Outlander maybe?? Would be so nice to meet Jamie.




Our camp site




Cooling down




Enjoying the view and wine

Jelly fish

Crossing Bealach na Ba (Pass of the Cattle)

Today was one of the highlights we were looking out for, taking the Bealach na Ba to apple cross, most people we spoke said “don’t do it, it’s to steep. You blow up the engine”. Off course we knew better and headed towards the start of it.

On the way we passed Eilean Donan Castle, so we stopped for a visit. Donan Castle was built on an island, locked in between three lochs. Loch Duich, loch Long and loch Alsh. In history a very important watch out point and ruined somewhere around 1700. Around 1920 someone decided to rebuild it and now it’s open for public. It’s nice to walk trough, and it gives stuning views over the lochs. You can even see the Isle of Skye from there.

In the shop i found this cookingbook about food and Whisky. Off course I really needed to have that. 

The whole trip today was beautifull, with small roads, tunnels that only fits one car, and amazing views.

But the highlight definitly was reaching the top of the Bealach na Ba in one piece and without any problems. It’s a single track road with passing places and going steep uphill the first half, and then down offcourse the second half. Untill 1950 it was a dirt road, and untill 1970 it was the only way to reach Applecross. Nothing mutch changed after 1950. It has a bitumen covering, but isn’t in too good a shape and still looks more like a foothpath than a road. At most places it’s only about 3 mtrs wide.

At the top Tos really needed to cool down a bit before going downhill. The meet thermometer ended up being very usefull to the temperature of the coolingwater. 

Also a great moment for some pictures of our victory.

At the end of the road was Applecross waithing for us, so now we are enjoying a well deserved drink before heading to town for a meal.

We ended the day at the applecross in sitting on the terras. Enjoying the sun an local beer. We had exelent locally catched langoustine en lamb for dinner. During coffee with scotch whisky we saw the sun set. The temperature dropt rappetly after the sun went down, so we ended the night inside the pub with a rare, very nice whishy called Bunnahabhain. It was a special botle Small Batch distilled 18 years old one. Perfect ending of a perfect day.

Change of plans, visiting the Caladonian Channel

Yesterday evening we decided to change the startingpoin of our tour. Instead of going to inverness, and start the NC500 there at the official starting point, we would drive from Perth to Applecross, making Applecross the start of the NC500 for us. By doing so we would pass the Caladonian Channel, something I want very dear. 

And so this morning we started packing the Van, when our neighbour dropped by. He is driving this really cool, very expensive Maserati. But was also camping in this small tent with his wife, so funny.

Anyway, he really liked Tos, so much that he offered to swap his Maserati for it 😂. Naturaly we declined. But it still gave us a good feeling.

After saying goodbye we left the campingsite towards Fort August. At Perth we had some delay because of road works, but after that is was okay. The scenery was really fantastic, blue skys, great views, and an occasional sheep on the road. 

Just before Fort August we stopped at a petrolstation for some groceries. Supermakets are very rear here, so the petrolstations are also the lokal supermarket. Anyway, this one also had a carwash station. And because Tos was dirty, and the weather was nice, Tanguy decided to give him a bath.

Tos and Tanguy ended up much cleaner than before.

After the shower we headed on to Fort August to visit the Waterlock of the Caladonian Canal. We arrived at 16.30 hour and saw that the next lock passage would be at five. Good reason to waith and have a beer.

At five there was some action in the water, but unfortiunatly no boats who wanted to cross. So we had our beer for no reason, what a shame 😉.

Time to find a place for the night. Walking back to the van we saw another HY van parked at the Loch Ness tourist boat jetty. No way we could leave without a picture of the two cars together. 

After the picture moment our search for an overnight spot started. The owner of the loch ness van told us about a nice parkingplace in the forrest, sounded great, but at arrival there was this sign saying “no overnight camping”. And being the good tourists as we are, we  left the spot in search of a campsite. We found a camping on google, just a bit further along the road. It turned out to be a tents only camping. And also terrased, no way we could camp there. So we went back to Fort August, just to find out that the campsite there was still closed till june 😤. So we decided to continue our way heading to Applecross and stop at the first parking suitable for overnight camping. We found a nice laybye along the A887, so we diceded to spent the night here. 

The bbq was delicious and so was the whisky afterwards 😊